The Truth About the Feast of the Seven Fishes: An Italian-American Tradition, Not Sicilian

Every year during the holiday season, many Italian-American families gather around the table to celebrate the “Feast of the Seven Fishes,” a lavish dinner featuring seven seafood dishes. This tradition, deeply rooted in Italian-American culture, is often associated with Sicily and its culinary heritage. But is this connection accurate?

In reality, the “Feast of the Seven Fishes” is not a tradition from Sicily or any specific region of Italy. Instead, it is a custom born in the United States, created by Italian immigrants who, eager to preserve their roots, reimagined the traditions of their homeland in a unique way.

The Roots of an Italian-American Tradition

To understand the origin of this custom, we need to look at the historical and cultural context of Italian immigrants in America. Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, millions of Italians left their homeland in search of a better life. Many came from Southern Italy, where Christmas Eve was traditionally a day of fasting or simple meals, often centered around fish, in preparation for the Christmas feast.

However, in Italy, there was no strict rule about the number of seafood dishes to serve. The variety depended on availability, economic means, and local habits. Upon arriving in America, immigrants found themselves in a more prosperous environment with access to a wider range of ingredients. They began transforming this modest tradition into a more elaborate event.

Why Seven Fishes?

The number seven seems to stem from religious symbolism. In Catholic tradition, the number seven represents the seven sacraments, the seven days of Creation, or the seven deadly sins. However, there is no direct link between this number and Italian Christmas traditions. In fact, the number of dishes often varies among Italian-American families: some serve nine, twelve, or even thirteen dishes, reflecting other Christian symbols.

What Do Sicilians Really Eat on Christmas Eve?

In Sicily, Christmas Eve dinner is traditionally tied to simple yet flavorful dishes, often featuring seafood, but without the obligation to serve seven different dishes. Popular preparations include fried cod, pasta with sardines, boiled octopus, and cardoons in batter.

Dishes like these reflect the seasonality and rural traditions of the island, where fish was often paired with local ingredients like citrus, fresh herbs, and seasonal vegetables. While seafood plays an important role in Sicilian cuisine, there is no historical record linking Sicily to the custom of preparing seven seafood dishes on Christmas Eve.

A Tale of Cultural Integration

The “Feast of the Seven Fishes” is not an imported Italian tradition but a beautiful example of how immigrant communities reinvented themselves, blending their cultural roots with the opportunities of the New World. While not authentically Sicilian, this tradition has become a symbol of the rich cultural heritage of Italian-Americans.

Conclusion

Next time someone tells you that the “Feast of the Seven Fishes” is a Sicilian tradition, you can gently correct them and share the true story behind this celebration. While Sicily offers a rich and varied cuisine, this particular custom belongs to the Italian diaspora—a testament to their ability to adapt while maintaining a connection to their origins.

Have you ever participated in the “Feast of the Seven Fishes”? Share your experience in the comments!

Meanwhile, I wanna share with you, my favorite dishes at Xmas Eve: Fried Salted Cod (Baccalà Fritto) and Battered Cardoons (Cardi in Pastella).

Fried Salted Cod (Baccalà Fritto)

Ingredients (serves 4):

              •            1.3 lb (600 g) salted cod, pre-soaked

              •            1 2/3 cups (200 g) all-purpose flour

              •            1 1/4 cups (300 ml) cold water, preferably sparkling

              •            A pinch of salt

              •            Extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil (for frying)

              •            Lemon juice (optional)

Instructions:

              1.           Prepare the Cod:

              •            Rinse the pre-soaked cod under cold running water to remove any excess salt.

              •            Pat it dry thoroughly with paper towels.

              •            Cut the cod into pieces approximately 2-3 inches in size.

              2.           Prepare the Batter:

              •            In a bowl, combine the flour with a pinch of salt.

              •            Gradually add the cold water, whisking continuously until you achieve a smooth, thick batter, similar in consistency to pancake batter.

              3.           Fry the Cod:

              •            Heat a generous amount of oil in a deep skillet to 350-360°F (175-180°C).

              •            Dip each piece of cod into the batter, allowing any excess to drip off.

              •            Carefully place the battered cod into the hot oil, frying a few pieces at a time to avoid overcrowding.

              •            Fry until golden brown and crispy, about 4-5 minutes per side.

              4.           Drain and Serve:

              •            Remove the fried cod and place on paper towels to absorb excess oil.

              •            Season with a light sprinkle of salt and, if desired, a squeeze of lemon juice.

              •            Serve immediately while hot.

Battered Cardoons (Cardi in Pastella)

Ingredients (serves 4):

              •            1 lb (500 g) fresh cardoons

              •            1 2/3 cups (200 g) all-purpose flour

              •            1 1/4 cups (300 ml) cold water, preferably sparkling

              •            A pinch of salt

              •            Juice of one lemon (for soaking)

              •            Oil for frying

Instructions:

              1.           Clean the Cardoons:

              •            Remove any tough outer leaves and trim the ends.

              •            Peel away the fibrous strings from the stalks.

              •            Cut the cardoons into pieces about 3 inches long.

              •            Place the pieces in a bowl of cold water with the lemon juice to prevent browning.

              2.           Cook the Cardoons:

              •            Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

              •            Add the cardoons and cook for 20-25 minutes, or until tender.

              •            Drain and pat dry with a clean cloth.

              3.           Prepare the Batter:

              •            In a bowl, mix the flour with a pinch of salt.

              •            Gradually whisk in the cold water until the batter is smooth and of medium thickness.

              4.           Fry the Cardoons:

              •            Heat oil in a deep skillet to 350-360°F (175-180°C).

              •            Dip each piece of cardoon into the batter, ensuring an even coat.

              •            Fry in the hot oil until golden and crisp, about 3-4 minutes per side.

              5.           Drain and Serve:

              •            Remove the fried cardoons and drain on paper towels.

              •            Serve hot as an appetizer or side dish.

Annalisa’s Tip:

For a light and crispy batter, ensure the water used is very cold, and maintain a consistent oil temperature during frying.

This year, bring a touch of authentic Sicily to your table and enjoy!

Ciao Belli and Buon Natale